Monday, February 28, 2011

Shush

I'm sure you are all dying to know why I haven't been writing anything the past couple weeks. Well, the last couple weeks of February have been an awesome time: a seemingly unending string of minor illnesses, cold and rainy weather, and lots of homework. Ugh... it makes me miserable just thinking about it, so I'll spare you the details.

But I'll share with you a bit of my mood from class the past couple weeks.

Europeans never stop talking in class. I feel like I'm in an 8th grade classroom half the time. There's this constant level of background noise from students whispering with each other. Except, apparently Eurostudents aren't capable of whispering... they just talk really quietly (if you know what I mean). Thus, instead of the easy-to-ignore, white-noise, rustling like sound of whispering, you get the noticeable, hard consonant, unintelligible-but-unignorable sounds of very quiet voices. I know this isn't the cool thing to say, and I know the professors are boring, but some of us quit their jobs, packed up their households, moved across an ocean, and are taking out student loans to PAY TUITION WITH THEIR OWN MONEY to actually listen to the teacher. So shush.

Monday, February 21, 2011

High points, part 2


The irony of climbing the Eiffel Tower, is that it disappears from the cityscape and your view of Paris no longer includes that famously iconic image.  But it is still a fun trip, and certainly helps you appreciate just how enormous it really is.  When Gustave Eiffel built the tower (in 1889, to celebrate the centennial anniversary of the Revolution and the World's Fair in Paris) he oversaw every single aspect, even building the steel frame pieces and rivets in his own factory.  Every seven years it gets repainted, although it has stayed brown since 1968 (I'd like to vote for a nice shade of forest green).  My favorite fact about the Eiffel Tower is this: it distributes its weight so elegantly that it exerts no more pressure on the ground per centimeter than a man seated in a four-legged chair.        

Beginning the trek

Champs de Mars, with the Tour Montparnasse in the background
(our final frontier in the way of tall things to climb)

See Sacré-Cœur on the hill?

We climbed the 650+ stairs to the second level, then the elevator to the very top (they don't let you take the stairs all the way up) and got there just in time to watch the sun set over the city. Eating our homemade picnic and pointing out all the monuments we could recognize, we avoided the 15€ shot glasses of champagne (yes, people will actually pay for that) and still managed to celebrate our life together with all its wonderful surprises.          


Palais de Chaillot

The Seine

Looking towards home...and La Défense (the business district)

It would be inappropriate not to include a kiss
We stayed up there until it got too cold to handle, and Tom thought he might have a seizure from the strobe lights that flash every hour (video to come).  They look a lot better from far away. 
Look at that handsome guy with his new haircut

What a great photographer...this picture is postcard quality!

High points

The domes of Sacré-Cœur
Usually around this time every year (Feb 17th to be exact) Tom and I hike Mt. Sanitas in a celebratory reenactment of that momentous day when we decided to tie the knot and stick with each other for good (aka- our engagement).  Since there aren't any mountains within 500km of us, we hiked up some other high places instead....to the Sacré-Cœur and the Tour Eiffel!  While the endless staircases and beautiful views reminded us of Sanitas, our excursions had a distinctive Parisian twist: peacoats and dress shoes instead of Gore-tex and boots, saussison sandwiches at the top instead of gorp...yes, we're trying to fit in. :) 

Looking up...

Looking out

A few interesting facts about the Sacré-Cœur:
-The church is devoted to the atonement for the massacre of some 58,000 citizens during the Franco-Prussian War (1871) and has even carried on the tradition of praying for those war crimes 24 hours a day, non-stop, since the church was consecrated more than three quarters of a century ago.  
-The travertine stone forming its structure constantly exudes calcite so it stays white, and gets even whiter when it rains.
-In WWII 13 bombs were dropped on the church but every single one narrowly missed the building and zero casualties occurred, something of a miracle and proof of God's protection, as stated on a plaque right inside the entrance.

Storm rolling in

A view of the Eiffel Tower

Sacré-Cœur from behind
Walking around Montmartre afterwards, we found Paris' one and only vineyard...quite a claim to fame.  They even produce a few hundred bottles per year, which are auctioned off at their yearly harvest festival. 

Clos Montmartre Vineyard

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Chocolate

chocolate-lovers heaven

Our grocery store here is far from the mind-boggling mecca of choice that we have in America. (Shout out to King Soopers!)  But there is one food group where "choice" even seems too weak a word: chocolate bars. Look at this! It never fails to excite me.  I'm pretty sure we could try a new kind every other day during our time here, and never eat the same one twice.

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

Watching the big game

No, not the Super Bowl.  That started after midnight here, and I had a test the next morning.

I'm talking, obviously, about France's big triumph over Ireland on Sunday in the Six Nations tournament.  That's rugby, fyi.

Now, I am not going to become one of those obnoxious American soccer apologists, who go abroad and then come back and proclaim the world-wide glories of 'futbol' (spelled 'football' in English, thank you very much).  I've become mildly more interested in reading about soccer over here, but it's still boring to watch. 

Rugby, on the other hand, is pretty thrilling to watch.  The action never stops, but is constantly varying.  The ball changes possession a lot and they can score in different ways.  They don't wear pads and there are limits on tackling techniques, making it is less violent than the NFL.  Thus you don't feel guilty watching, unlike the NFL, where you know the players are most likely giving each other shortened, mentally-incapacitated lives for the sake of your entertainment. 

That being said, it is pretty complicated to get in to on your own.  There are a lot of rules governing minute details.  Margaret and I went to an Irish pub with my classmate Matthieu to watch the game.  He is from Toulouse, a rugby hotbed in the south of France, grew up with many of the Toulouse players on France's national team, and plays amateur club rugby.  We quizzed him on rules virtually the whole game, but I'm still not exactly sure what happened.  Take the scrum, for example, where the players gather around in a giant circle and push for the ball.  Turns out it is the most technical and strategic part of the game, and not just a shoving match.  The sport has a language all its own, as I'm sure you noticed if you tried to read the story about the France/Ireland match.

You don't have to know all about it to realize that it is thrilling to watch though.  France won because of a clutch goal line stand with the clock winding down.  I didn't need to know the rules to be on the edge of my chair.  We had a great time experiencing that bit of European culture, and hopefully I'll get to go watch more of the 6 Nations tournament in coming weeks.  We also got tickets to go see a professional club match in Stade de France in March, along with Matthieu and a bunch of other classmates. 

The best part is that the 80 minute game (two 40 minute halves) was done in less than two hours, since we didn't have to watch 6000 Coors Light commercials. 

Sunday, February 13, 2011

THE Louvre

First Sunday every month is free museum day in Paris.  We went to the Louvre last Sunday.

There was a long line to get in to the pyramid, but it moves really fast.  The building was definitely full of people, but on the other hand, the building is roughly the size of the city of Golden.  So it never felt too crowded.  Unless you wanted to get up close and personal with Mona Lisa.

There were lots of famous pieces of art, lots of Egyptian history stolen by Napoleon, lots of beautiful rooms.  We even found an enormous room with a ceiling painted by a native of Lexington, VA!  Who says Lex isn't cultured!
The ceiling painted by a Lexington native
The building really is amazing.  It's exhausting being in there because of the size, and we only stayed 2 hours.  But I think the courtyards and surrounding area are so nice that it would be easy to make a day out of it when the weather is nice.

So don't fear, prospective visitors.  We will be happy to take you to the Louvre.  It is everything it is reputed to be.  Just make sure you eat a good breakfast beforehand.
Famous stuff.
Some short dead dude.  Bonus points for first person to get the reference.

Saturday, February 12, 2011

Education addendum

Another thought I had this morning:
Saying a class was 'difficult' at Mines meant 'hours-spent-staring-at-a-complex-derivative-trying-to-make-sense-of-it' difficult.  The same could even be said about liberal arts classes at W&L, except we were staring at literature.

I haven't had that here.  Even in Reservoir Engineering, the class has been general enough that it's not hard for a science person to comprehend the ideas.  The difficulty comes in trying to understand what others are telling you, trying to get your point across so that others really understand it, and trying to get very different people to work together effectively.  I imagine this is what management courses are all about (actually I have one or two management-type classes here) but the cool thing is we are actually doing it in technical classes.

It's probably not the intended goal of the program, but it's definitely a very useful skill.  Even at TDA, I spent more time worrying about getting people to help me on projects, or phrasing proposals for the intended audience, than I did puzzling over technical issues.

Just trying to figure out how to make lemonade here.

Thursday, February 10, 2011

My Education in France

Well, I've been here over a month, and I had my first big test and project due this week, so I think it is fair to give an assessment of the French educational system.

First, the negatives.  We have every class in the same room, with a random schedule of what course we have each day.  We show up at 9 am, listen to a lecture till 12:15 (with a break or two), have lunch till 1:30, then have more lecture till 4:45.  Lecture in France though is really a lecture.  The professor talks continuously.  No interaction, no exercises.  Every day of the week.  Sounds a little... dry, right?  Well, then you add in the fact that, so far, 70-80% of these lectures have been in English that falls somewhere in the spectrum between heavily-accented and broken.  Oh, and let's just say French professors are not known for their thrilling oratory.  Dry is an accurate word.  Monotone is another.  We have a final and/or big project in each class, but don't really have much homework at all.  Very different from America.

Despite all this, the French students in my class assure me that the IFP is a very prestigious school, and it is an honor for them to be here.  I admit that I had to get past some prejudices to accept this.  For one, it is somewhat natural for Americans to associate poor English syntax and vocabulary with a lack of intelligence.  I have to keep reminding myself that the students with poor English are speaking English as their second (or maybe fourth) language, and doing it in technical classes.  I have yet to even learn all the verb tenses in my French language class.  A second issue is that class vocal contributions really are poor.  Part is because the professors don't facilitate it, part is because many of the non-Anglo students are cautious in contributing because of language fears, and part is because with 18 nationalities in the room, people worry (a little too much) about offending someone with opinionated comments.  Finally, I really do get frustrated about not being able to ask deeper questions of professors.  I try to get more details, but many times they don't understand what I'm asking.  They are experts in their subject, but can only express the general ideas in English, and that can be frustrating.

There are positives though.  If you thought to yourself, 'No homework with an hour and fifteen minute lunch break plus coffee breaks sounds pretty nice to me,'...you have a point.  When we do have a good professor and/or class discussion, the day flows very well.  And now that I've moved beyond my prejudices, I've realized that many of my fellow students are very very bright.  Furthermore, the promise of encountering international perspectives and cultures has not disappointed.  Having so many nationalities (and career backgrounds) represented is every bit as interesting as it sounds.

I should also add that I am not too concerned about grades here.  I feel like I am learning what I came here to learn, and the oddities of the teaching style almost make it seem like I'm not getting evaluated at all.

It just really is a puzzle to me why France requires this style of teaching, with long lectures, no interaction, and few practice exercises/homework.  The French students say that it is like this on every level, and they all hate it.  I guess what I'm saying is that Americans should be grateful for professors that feel obligated to make classes engaging and thought-provoking, and maybe even appreciate homework a little bit.

Feel free to remind me of that comment when I'm stressed out next October.

Monday, February 7, 2011

Want to celebrate? Eat a Crêpe!

Le Chandeleur was last week, on February 2nd to be exact.  Celebrated in the Catholic Church, it commemorates the day baby Jesus was presented at the temple, 40 days after his birth, as was the custom.  When Joseph and Mary arrived at the emple, they were met by Simeon, who proclaimed baby Jesus to be "the Light of the World."  Hence the name, le Chandeleur, meaning "festival of candles."  And what do the French do to celebrate this holiday?  Eat crêpes, of course!

So we decided to join in on the fun.  We purchased a crêpe pan and had a bunch of our friends over after class for a "crêpe happy hour"!  According to tradition, the chef must throw the first crêpe at the ceiling and if it sticks she will have good luck for the rest of the year.  I decided that I'd rather not clean uncooked crêpe batter off the ceiling, but almost mastered the one-handed flip.  We made nutella crêpes, complet crêpes (ham, cheese and egg), lemon and honey crêpes...the crêpe genre is really pretty open to anything you can imagine and execute.  By the time we return stateside, I'm pretty sure we'll be so creative that we'll put Gaia out of business.  :)   

Saturday, February 5, 2011

To market, to market...

We made our weekly Saturday market trip this morning, which was delightful as always.  Our area has the regular market on Saturdays and Tuesdays, with an organic market on Sundays.  You could do nothing but go to various neighborhood markets every day, if you desired!  The selection and quality are both overwhelming and exhilarating.  And it's not like our farmer's markets in America, where everything seems a little overpriced for the quality you're getting, and you still have to go to the grocery store to get staples. 
Farmers from Rueil, with hands to prove it
 You can get just about any whole food at the market here, from fresh seafood...
What do you do with fish that large!?
 to butter, to veggies, spices, meats, cheeses...
Cheese stand
and of course our daily baguette...all at a reasonable price!  It's like a dream, really.     
Success!
Maybe one of these days we'll be especially daring and buy a whole rabbit or blood sausage....

Thursday, February 3, 2011

One Month! part 2

It is hard to believe that a month has passed already.  It's a beautiful thing to be here in a new city, learning new things, meeting new people and gaining new perspectives.  Each day holds adventure and challenge; and it has been rejuvenating to have time and space for reflection.  I do miss certain comforts, skiing in the Rockies, our dear friends and family, but am SO thankful for the internet and letter-writing!  So, here goes my one-month blog-reflection...  

Happiest surprise: I have been surprised by how much I love this city and "big city life".  I thought I would be missing the mountains and open spaces much more, but it probably helps that we have a forest and river nearby, where I run almost every day.  I love all the walking and commuting (over 2 hours every day), getting lost and discovering new places, knowing that revolutionary (no pun intended!) things have been happening here for thousands of years and I am among the buildings that have been witness.  Something about it all is so invigorating and inspiring: being in a place of such dense life, creativity, change, history, culture. 

Most difficult:  The hardest thing for me has been the inability to express myself, due to language barriers.  I long to connect more with the acquaintances around me- the boulanger, the girl whom I regularly pass on runs, the house cleaner at my job- and to be able to eavesdrop on the metro :) but am still finding it hard.  Sure, there are little victories in conversation, but usually those come after much thought and script-planning!  It is hard to feel like you are less of yourself, simply because you just cannot express it.  But I am very thankful that we have friends who speak English, because without them we would be much more lonely!   


On that same note, I am looking forward to learning more French this month...the month of love, why not focus intently on the language of love?!  My goal is to find a friend to exchange 1 hour of English for 1 hour of French, at least every week...I let you know how that goes.  


Scared of: Well, thankfully I do not have to get a haircut!  I did wake up in the middle of the night awhile ago, with the dread of realizing that if I had chest pain or couldn't breath, we would not know the number to call.  But that was easily looked up; it is 112.  So now I suppose, I have nothing to fear.


Biggest upcoming challenge:  Write more blog posts!  I have been under-representing the female perspective here and aim to improve on that.  I find it hard to write to an audience of more than one, because there's so much to say to each one of you.  But I'll try.  :)

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

One Month!

31 days ago, Margaret and I schlepped all of our possessions here across an ocean and then across town on foot, then collapsed in bed for 16 hours.  Vivid memories of that day still pop up when I walk around Rueil.

I do not feel like I have been here anywhere close to a month.  It has been a very positive experience so far.  There are certainly negatives.  I've been shocked by how difficult at times it can be for me to relate to people from a different culture, whether it be the French public or the many other nationalities in my program.   But I'm growing.  I definitely miss the comforts of home, but I think that's natural.  Finishing one month means we are under 6 months left, and I didn't write that without a pang of joy at thinking, "Less than 6 months till I can ...... in Denver again!"  Homesickness is a good thing, though, since it means you have a joyful home.

But overall, there have been too many wonderful parts to describe them all.  I thought I'd give my happiest surprise from the first month, the most difficult thing, the thing I'm looking forward to in months to come, and the biggest challenge of the next month.  I'll see if I can get Margaret to do the same when she gets home tonight.

Happiest surprise: How easy it has been to get around/live in Paris, and how helpful people are.  Parisians have such a bad reputation, I was expecting to spend the first month getting spit on and doors slammed in my face.  And the French in my program tell me the only reason I've had good experiences is because they try to be nice to polite tourists.  But whatever, I'll take it.  Use French whenever possible (and always start in French), talk quietly, and be kind and the French will be quite nice, for the most part.


Oh and the food is great.  But that's no surprise.

Most difficult thing: I mentioned dealing with different cultures, as that's a weakness of mine, but I'd like to write about that in more detail.  So I'll say the weather.  It's not actually any colder here than Colorado or the east coast.  But the humidity makes it worse, and the cloudiness really gets to you.  It's almost always gray here, not to mention the fact that the sun didn't even rise till 8:30 or later at first.  Obviously we're getting more hours of daytime now so that helps.  But I'm still excited for spring.

Looking forward to: Traveling to other places.  Not that we've come close to getting sick of Paris.  But there are so many places we want to visit in Europe.  The weather, a heavy course load, and pricey tickets have held us back so far.  It'll come.

Scared of: Getting a haircut.  It's desperately needed.  I don't like getting haircuts in America.  Imagine trying to do it in French.  I'm terrified.

I hope you all have enjoyed the blog so far.  We'll try to keep you informed and post more exciting pictures instead of my rambling thoughts.  And thank you sincerely for all of your thoughts, help, prayers, and communications.